The revenge of blends

At one time, it was normal in many places to blend small percentages of different grape varieties with a wine’s dominant varietal. Today, this could offer a solution to certain problems caused by climate change.

During the recent Climate Change and Fine Wines conference, organized by Guido Martinetti and Federico Grom at their Mura estate in Costigliole d’Asti, there was one address, among the many very interesting ones, which particularly impressed me. It was by Paolo De Marchi, a seasoned wine grower and owner of the Isole e Olena estate in Chianti Classico. At a time when “single-grape” wines seem to be all the rage, he expressed a detailed proposal that went against this trend. Given the situation created by climate change, he argued, it would make more sense now to return to the way things were done in the past, when single-grape wines were almost unheard of.

The reason why is quite simple. Climate change has become an uncontrollable factor and thus cultivating a single varietal is now riskier. This is because the grapes may not always reach full maturity in regard to their sugar content and their phenols. It was for this reason that Paolo De Marchi said he is again blending his Sangiovese with Canaiolo grapes as a means to avoid any complications. Canaiolo, in fact, has tannins that are more gentle, it ripens at a different time and compliments Sangiovese in a less invasive way than, above all, certain “international” varietals.

At one time, it was normal in many places, and even traditional, to blend small percentages of different grape varieties with a wine’s dominant varietal. This took place, and in some cases continues to, even in Burgundy, while in the Langhe and Montalcino the requirement of using a “single” grape has only existed since the regulations governing DOCG wines came into effect in 1980. Before then, in fact, it was admissible to blend small percentages of Barbera with Nebbiolo to make Barolo and Colorino and Canaiolo were blended with Sangiovese by many to make Brunello.

It should be noted that this does not involve blending in Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, but using native varieties that were traditionally found in the vineyards of various winegrowing areas. Many years ago, blending these varietals was even encouraged in cold years because certain grapes did not ripen properly. Canaiolo, for example, was known to “soften” the possible acidic/tartness of Sangiovese.

Today’s problems are the opposite of those in the past but they create similar unbalances. Drought, for example, inhibits the development of phenols and thus creates “green” tannins but for different reasons. And this is why Canaiolo, Paolo De Marchi argued, could be useful again. Then there is the question of biodiversity. Cultivating single crops and single varietals, in fact, are not compatible with the underlying principle of sustainable agriculture.

All this makes sense, to be sure, but there is no presumption that it is an end-all solution, only a basis to initiate a discussion. And yet perhaps a scenario may be forming in which blending will have its sweet revenge.