Italiano
Go Naples!
The area around Naples is producing incredible results for winemakers in the volcanic zones of Campi Flegrei and Vesuvius. Evidence of this is provided by the wines of Casa Setaro, Cantine Olivella, La Sibilla and Cantina del Mare.
The title here does not refer to the Naples soccer team, which is playing magnificently this season. Nor does it have to do with the city of Naples, which is wonderful for so many reasons. Here we deal with wine and for some time now the area around the city of Naples is becoming a reference point for winemaking in the Campania region and beyond.
There are basically two winemaking zones bordering the city: Campi Flegrei and Vesuvius. Both are volcanic areas with ancient traditions and varietals that, in this case, can be considered native, like Falanghina, Piedirosso, Catalanesca and Caprettone. Many of these grapes grow on ungrafted vines thanks to the particular characteristics of the soil that kept the phylloxera plague at bay. This was particularly true in Campi Flegrei, which I believe has the greatest expanse of ungrafted vines in Italy, if not Europe.
The lead players in these areas are a few very small and artisanal estates that produce some truly interesting wines: Casa Setaro and Cantine Olivella, respectively situated in Trecase and Sant’Anastasia on Vesuvius; and La Sibilla and Cantina del Mare, in Bacoli and Monte di Procida, in Campi Flegrei. Below you will find evaluations of their best wines carried out by Antonella Amodio for our Essential Guide to Italian Wine 2023.
Casa Setaro
Vesuvio Bianco Contradae 61∙37 2019
95/100 - € 25,00
50% Caprettone, 30% Greco, 20% Fiano. Stainless steel only. Bright straw yellow color. Aromas of mint, rosemary, myrtle, tomato leaf and licorice. Then tangerine zests. Fresh and agile sip, sustained by good acidity. Long and very persistent finish.
Cantine Olivella
Vesuvio Rosso Vesuvio 2020
93/100 - € 28,00
100% Piedirosso. Ferments and rests in terracotta amphorae for 12 months. Bright ruby red color. Aromas of blackberries and blueberries, mint and white pepper. Balanced, fresh and briny taste. Long and pleasant finish.
La Sibilla
Campi Flegrei Cruna del Lago 2021
96/100 - € 20,00
100% Falanghina from 60 years old vineyards. Stainless steel on the yeasts for 6 months. Bright straw yellow color. Wide and rich aromas of yellow flowers and fresh fruits together with citrus notes. Fresh and savory taste. Sharp and very persistent finish.
Cantine del Mare
Campi Flegrei Piedirosso Terrazze Romane 2019
91/100 - € 15,00
100% Piedirosso. Stanieless steel only. Clear ruby red color. Aromas of red fruits, pine tree, smoky hints. Rich and fresh taste, good balance and pleasant notes of morello cherries in the finish.
