The Nobile revolution: Pieve

Based on a project studied and unanimously adopted by producers, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has come up with one of the most innovative production regulations for its new version: Pieve.

In the “old-fashion world” of Montepulciano, we have seen in recent years some novelties and an authentic revolution. The most targeted formal novelty was the addition of the term “Toscana” on the Nobile label. This was a controversial move which was considered fundamental by some, given the strength of the Tuscany brand, and as a defeat by others, for the same reason, since it was seen as a recognition of the weakness of appellation. Time will tell who is right but this is of little interest for us wine lovers.

The authentic revolution is called: Pieve, which translates Parish. It is a project from the Consorzio producers’ association which was developed relatively quickly and the first occasion to taste this new variety will already be during the March tasting previews. The project is still in its initial stages, however, with the wines not expected to be available retail until the beginning of 2024. This idea convinced everyone and overcame the mutual vetoes that had for a long time clipped the wings of the Nobile di Montepulciano appellation.

The negotiation skills of Consorzio President Andrea Rossi, along with those of vice presidents Luca Tiberini and Susanna Crociani, allowed for the project, its goals and timetables to be adopted with a speed that could arguably be called miraculous.

The Pieve project began with a detailed study of curia archives which revealed that religious structures not only recorded the presence of vineyards in the area of Montepulciano but also the movement of grapes. It was thus possible to use history to define specific areas that were already suited for winegrowing in centuries past. These findings were then confirmed by information in official Tuscan archives recorded in later centuries. It is interesting to see that certain areas, which we will call Pievi (Parishes), were much more cultivated with grapes than they are now and are found in zones of Montepulciano that today are considered a bit too cold for Sangiovese.

For these areas, much stricter production regulations have been adopted than existed previously, both in regard to physical chemical parameters and for the ampelographic makeup, which allow for the use of only Sangiovese (minimum 90%), Canaiolo, Mammolo and Colorino limited to 3%. And, for the first time, a maximum limit was placed on the presence of ethylphenols, to avoid aromatic contamination.