Extraordinary varietal baggage

Natalino Crognaletti is not only the owner of the Fattoria San Lorenzo estate but also one of the greatest winemakers in the Marche region. His whites from the Montevìcarotto area of Jesi, where Verdicchio achieves the height of its floral richness, are amazing and for the past few years Natalino’s reds have been on the same level.

The style of the estate is to extract the essence from the grape without forcing out the authentic richness of the fruit, which with the whites results in an almost ‘Champagne-esque’ complexity. All this without compromising the sensation of spontaneity that is the trademark of the best producers in the area.

Here we look at Vigna Paradiso because it was the first Morro d’Alba varietal I ever tasted that did not have the ‘icy’ tannins typical of that grape. And this includes wines from the best producers in the area, first among them Stefano Mancinelli who has the merit of saving from oblivion this grape that is so difficult in the vineyard due to the tendency of the fruit to split open and shed ‘tears’, hence lacrima, when its ripens fully. It is also difficult in the winery because the mass of color substances tends create reduction in the wine.

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