For the enhancement of minor grape varieties

The Ampelographic Research Group for the Safeguarding and Preservation of Viticultural Originality and Biodiversity, GRASPO for short, carries out a project created to safeguard so-called minor grape varieties by focusing on territorial typicality.

It is called GRASPO, which in itself is a beautiful name, but it is an acronym that stands for Ampelographic Research Group for the Safeguarding and Preservation of Viticultural Originality and Biodiversity. It is a project born from the will of three basic oenologists who are very curious, but above all lovers of research, experimentation and nostalgic towards minor grape varieties. They are Luigino Bertolazzi, Aldo Lorenzoni and Giuseppe Carcerieri de Prati.

What is meant by minor grape varieties is quickly stated. They are grape varieties whose spread is typically contained in favor of other varieties that have taken over. The reasons for the overtaking are basically down to: better ability to reach maturity, higher yields and greater resistance to vine diseases. Over the years, however, the climate has changed and so have the ways of making grapes and wine, focusing more and more on territorial typicality, low yields and favoring varieties with late budding and harvesting to go against full and optimal ripening. For this reason, and others evidently, the rediscovery of some minor varieties is becoming increasingly interesting today.

GRASPO is thus not just a nostalgic attempt to avoid the extinction of names such as Vernazola, Bigolona, Saccola, Gouais Blanc (which later turns out to have been under study for some time in Champagne as well) or Cabrusina. but an attempt to create a real viticultural catalog to draw on in order to project into the future of Italian viticulture. In addition to identifying and propagating minor varieties, the association is also involved in microvinification. The commitment and the cultural and cultivation value is truly immense, some of the safeguarded and rediscovered varieties exist in a single or very few specimens, which translated into winemaking means a few clusters each year, vinified in demijohns and then bottled hoping to get to at least 6 bottles, which does not always happen. Tasting availabilities at the moment are very limited but possible, and chemical analyses of the grapes and the resulting wines are crucial with a view to creating a bibliography that has never existed before. Clearly, the future goal must be propagation to make even the most representative winemaking possible and scientifically relevant.

The Association's bylaws state among its objectives, I quote:

1. To identify, catalog and verify ancient and minor grape varieties nationally and internationally.
2. To support and promote the identity of these grape varieties, their history and different cultivation systems. 
3. Activate research study actions for the valorization of these vines.
4. Coordinate technical-scientific and cultural initiatives aimed at their recovery and valorization also in synergy with entities and institutions. encourage in these areas the presence of man, the preservation of the environment, old vineyards and ancient forms of farming, the protection of the landscape and the maintenance of a social and cultural fabric prerequisite for the activation of rural development processes.

I had the opportunity to taste about twenty different varieties, vinified in glass (or steel), including white and red. Some of them unknown and recovered in the most unlikely places, while others are well known, widespread and employed, albeit in a complementary way, in emblazoned appellations. It emerged that, to date, there are some surprising varieties in terms, above all, of acidity and freshness, capable of reaching full maturity while maintaining enviable levels of acidity, excellent concentrations of color and tannins, as well as correct alcohol degrees. Some have also proved interesting in withering, opening up alternative avenues for the preservation of even a technique and not just the varieties themselves.

GRASPO is a small reality, a group of friends it is true, but they are professionals and have all the credentials to expand and make connections throughout the country. 

There should be more GRASPOs among us or maybe there are, they just don't know they are yet. Anyone who has (or has spotted) vines that might be of interest to this association and its aims is invited to get in touch with the people in charge, you can find them on the main social channels as GRASPO Association. 

For those curious, here are the names of the varieties tasted: Vernazola, Ua salà, Bigolona, Gouais Blanc, Saccola rosé, Rossetta di Montagna, Quaiara, Cabrusina, Pelara, Dindarella, Croatina, Denela, Forselina, Simesara, Saccola, Pontedara, Oseleta, Cavrara or Bassanese dal Piciol Rosso, Turchetta.

The above tasting took place at Gianni Tessari's winery, in the heart of the black hills of Soave and Lessini Durello. Therefore, I leave you with a tasting of what I consider to be this producer's best interpretation of Durello metodo classico. An unusual dry, which promises great longevity and endless facets between verticality and creamy sensations.

• Gianni Tessari, Lessini Durello Riserva Dry Evento 2013  (Limited Edition Prodotto su prenotazione)

Related Products