Italiano
The two types of Durello sparkling wines
This Verona-Vicenza sparkling wine has two versions and names: Lessini Durello, for the one made using the Charmat Method, and Monti Lessini, for the one that uses the traditional Method.
As it does every year, the Consorzio Tutella Vino Lessini producers’ association staged an event in Verona, in the Gran Guardia palazzo, open to the media and public. Durello&Friends saw the presentation of over 30 wineries from the area who offered some 100 wines for tasting.
This sparkling wine is produced between the provinces of Verona and Vicenza, at the feet of the Monte Lessini hills. The bubblies have distinct but different personalities which became more defined in 2018 when an official distinction was drawn between the two giving the name Lessini Durello for those made using the Charmat Method (which today still accounts for some 70% of production) and Monte Lessini for those using the Traditional Method, no matter whether they sit on the less for 36 or over 100 months. This latter version is, in my view, the better because its connection with the territory is more defined and evident.
The primary grape used to make this wine is Durella, a native variety re-evaluated over the past 30 years for its distinct vocation for becoming a bubbly. However, it is also sometimes made as a still wine or one using the Ancestral Method. The grape has a thick skin but above all a sharp acidity (try eating one) and seems created to make a sparkling wine. While it is increasingly being made as a single-varietal wine, it can also be blended up to 15% with Pinot Bianco, a decidedly “gentler” and aromatic grape.
The territory the wine is made is no less important and leaves its impression in your mind when tasted. The Lessini Hills are between the cities of Verona and Vicenza. The vineyards are situated at high altitudes (between 300 and 600m above sea level) and re on hillsides with pitches that ensure diurnal temperature variations, avoid any risk of water stagnation and guarantee a correct exposure to the sun. All these factors contribute to allowing the grapes to ripen properly and develop their aromatic richness.
The composition of the soil is for the most part volcanic with an ample presence of organic substances and minerals. Last but not least, thanks to its vicinity to the Regional Nature Park, it benefits from a wealth of biodiversity: forests, flowers, insects and animal life.
Production today is in the neighborhood of one million bottles between the two methods. It is for the most part consumed in the above mentioned provinces but is more than ready to be discovered worldwide. Flavorful, fresh, elegant and with great personality, this wine will not leave you indifferent. It can be used in different ways and circumstances, be it alone or paired with local foods, first among them cheese but also traditional dishes like baccalà (cod) alla vicentina and risottos made with local spices.
I enjoyed it by itself and I think the Traditional Method version is much more interesting, depending on the possibility producers have to allow it to sit on the lees as long as possible. The following are some of the better ones I tasted and discovered.
Monti Lessini Cuvée Augusto Riserva Pas Dosé 2013 Corte Giacobbe
92/100 - € 30,00
100% made from Durella grapes cultivated at 450m above sea level. After fermenting in wood and additional 10% of older vintage wines are added. Second fermentation using the Traditional Method and sitting some 50 months on the lees. The wine has a golden-yellow color with bright and green reflections. The aroma immediately recalls the territory with taut notes of flint softened by those of fresh almond. The mouthfeel is vertical, fresh, direct and nicely composed. Notes if mapo and grapefruit alternate with those that at times recall citrus pulp and at times more bitter ones of peel. An infinite persistence and an excellent drop.
Lessini Durello Riserva 60 Brut 2012 Corte Moschina
92/100 - € 25,00
100% Durella grapes and made using the Traditional Method with 60 months on the lees. A straw yellow color with bright, green reflections. The bouquet has an immediate note of baked black olive that pre-announces a crispy and flavorful mouthfeel. This is followed by unexpected aromas of yellow fruit and white melon. As expected, the mouthfeel is taut, vertical and creamy thanks to a non-evasive effervescence and a nice persistence, with a pleasing and flavorful sensation lingering on the palate.
Lessini Durello Riserva Extra Brut 2010 Sandro de Bruno
91/100 - € 30,00
A blend of 85% Durella and 15% Pinot Bianco cultivated at an altitude at 500m above sea level. The wine ferments in stainless steel and matures on the lees for 60 months. A straw-yellow color with golden reflections. The aroma has notes of yellow fruit with hints of tropical fruit along with some of chalk and those of the vineyard soil. The mouthfeel has a delicate attack and is graceful thanks to the creamy effervescence, while alternating fresh and acidic notes, in a certain way almost tannic, make this a great drop along with the sensations if yellow fruit.
Lessini Durello 60 Mesi Extra Brut 2010 Gianni Tessari
90/100 - € 25,00
100% Durella grapes and matured on the lees for 60 months. A straw-yellow color with a continuous and delicate perlage. The aroma has crispy, volcanic notes followed by those of spice and sweet scents of citrus and candied citrus peel. The mouthfeel is definitely fresh and vertical, very elegant, with a surprising hint of honey in the finish that has a nice persistence.
Lessini Durello Io Aura Riserva Brut 2013 Cantina Tonello
89/100 - € 25,00
100% Durella. Made in stainless steel and matured 60 months on the lees. A straw-yellow color with golden hues. The sweet aromas recall white flowers but there are also those of yellow fruit and honey. The delicate mouthfeel has a soft attack that recalls the aromas, thus tropical but also composed and distinct with a pleasing, flavorful sensation in the palate and a medium persistence.
