Italiano
Preview: Brunello di Montalcino 2011
Towards the end of January, I was in Montalcino with some colleagues, including Dario Cappelloni and Stefania Vinciguerra, for a tasting of Brunello 2011 and Riserva 2010, the latter being the subject of a preview we published last November.
2011 was a controversial, complicated year due to the unusual weather that exalted the skills of those producers who learned from the torrid 2003 vintage and, to a lesser degree 2007. Mild temperatures and ample rainfall resulted in a very early blossoming, in some areas as much as two weeks early, which initiated a rapid ripening of the grapes that left them subject to oidium and downy mildew that producers dealt with well. The weather changed dramatically in July with scorching temperatures and an almost total lack of rain. The vineyards with soils that were thinner and better leached – areas that are generally considered the best – handled the conditions well, as did those that retained sufficient amounts of moisture. The lack of water when the grapes were at an advanced stage of maturity caused no few problems for the health of the skins which in turn created some problems for the ripeness of the tannins and in some cases the acidity plunged.
Then the terroir of Montalcino magnificently played its role with its unique characteristics and morphological particularities that allowed for some ‘miracles’ in regard to quality. Some areas at a slightly higher altitude retained more moisture in their subsoil and produced better wines that expected, almost at a level of the best years. This included, for example, the area of the ridge that runs from Passo del Lume Spento towards Castiglion del Bosco.
As always the skill of those tending to the vines played an important role and avoided summer pruning. Equally important was the skill in the winery, the proper use of wood for both aging as well as fermentation/maceration. Another variable that played a key role was the allowance of 15% of the wine coming from different vintages which, when done well, can improve a difficult year. Nevertheless, this must be done with care otherwise it can harm more than help a wine.
All things considered, there are some excellent, quite pleasing and easy to drink 2011 Brunello even if most are not destined to age long. Fortunately, the majority of producers dealt with the extreme and contradictory climatic conditions well, coming out with wines that were decidedly better than those of 2003 that had similar weather problems.
Before beginning our reviews, I would like thank the producers’ association for their cooperation and allowing us, for the second year, to have a preview tasting before the official presentation of the new vintage with their Benvenuto Brunello event.
95/100
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Cerbaiona
Togata dei Togati Brunello di Montalcino 2011 La Togata-Vini Italiani da Sogno
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Argiano
Madonna delle Grazie Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Il Marroneto
94/100
Rennina Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Pieve di S. Restituta
Le Lucere Brunello di Montalcino 2011 San Filippo
Vecchie Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Siro Pacenti
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Biondi Santi
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Le Potazzine
93/100
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Salvioni
Filo di Seta Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Castello Romitorio
Tenuta Nuova Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Casanova di Neri
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Canalicchio di Sopra
92/100
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Belpoggio
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Piancornello
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Tassi
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Palazzo
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Padelletti
91/100
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 San Polo
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Casa Matè
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Caprili
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Sassodisole
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Donna Olga
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Tenuta di Sesta
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Luce
90/100
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 La Fornace
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Uccelliera
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 San Lorenzo
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Collelceto
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Renieri
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Fattoi
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Villa i Cipressi
Brunello di Montalcino 2011 Agostina Pieri
