Lombardy still white-wines

by Editorial Staff 02/28/23
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Montelio oltrepo pavese potatura

When saying "Lombardy," it is natural to think of bubbles (Franciacorta and Oltrepò Pavese) or the full-bodied reds of Valtellina, but regional viticulture does not end there. We offer two unusual whites, always within 15 euros.

There are 30 hectares of vineyards that Luca Formentini, owner of Podere Selva Capuzza, leads in the province of Brescia, in Desenzano del Garda, among white and red DOC, still and sparkling wines from Lake Garda. The Formentini family offers tours and guided tastings but also catering and lodging in Cascina Capuzza, a place where quiet reigns supreme. 

Alongside the excellent Lugana, they offer a white wine that we like to point out for its personality: Campo del Soglio, produced with Tuchì (that would be ex-Tocai) grapes in a very small appellation, almost at risk of extinction: the San Martino della Battaglia doc. From the vineyards and the winery you can enjoy the view of the tower of San Martino della Battaglia, a monument that leaves an indelible memory of the past history of this territory.

The other wine we propose comes from the opposite side of the region, the town of Codevilla in the province of Pavia. Here Caterina and Giovanna Brazzoli, sisters, represent the seventh generation of the family that, more than a century and a half ago, founded Montelio, a famous winery in Oltrepò. Those who are a few years old will remember the passionate entries dedicated to their wines by Luigi Veronelli in his Bolaffi Catalogue of the Wines of Italy in the 1970s. Now the winery carries on with a determined edge, always presenting interesting and well-made wines. 

We chose Nulla Hora, made from Müller Thurgau grapes, the semi-aromatic varietal created in the late 19th century in Germany by winemaker Hermann Müller originally from the Swiss town of Thurgau (hence the name) from a cross between Rhine Riesling and another white grape. Some say it was Sylvaner, some say it was Chasselas, some say it was Gutedel or Madaleine Royal. In any case, this vine was planted at the winery in 1951 and this is the result.

Click on the names of the wines to read the tasting notes.

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