Cesanese del Piglio

It proves more and more to be the red wine of Latium known even outside the region. A nice, dry, full-bodied still red wine.

Cesanese is a historic grape variety that originated in ancient times in the hills surrounding Rome. There are two main biotypes of Cesanese: that of Comune and that of Affile. As implied by the names themselves, Cesanese Comune is found in various places in Lazio, while the production of Cesanese di Affile is limited to the province of Rome and, mostly, to the municipality of the same name.

This vine, with both biotypes, gives rise to "generous" wines (as the nineteenth-century ampelographer Acerbi writes), which can also be declined in sweet or sparkling versions-it was so especially in the past-to be drunk decidedly young but which in recent years is experiencing a very important qualitative growth thanks to the work of some very good and passionate producers. To the point that today the dry and structured version is preferred.

There are three appellation wines based on these biotypes: Cesanese del Piglio (which is the only DOCG), Cesanese di Affile and Cesanese di Olevano Romano (which are DOC). The one from Piglio, which is considered the best, has its range in the province of Frosinone, on the slopes of the Ernici Mountains, especially in the upper Sacco valley.
We present two Cesanese del Piglio (by Coletti Conti and Giovanni Terenzi) that combine undoubted quality with an "all-purpose" piece, but we also want to mention other excellent producers in the denomination, such as La Visciola, Casale della Ioria, Marcella Giuliani or Falcone Natural Wines.

Let's start with Coletti Conti, located in Località Caetanella in Anagni. Anton Maria Coletti Conti has a smiling face and a small gift: the ability to immediately put his interlocutor at ease, telling anecdotes and stories, immediately getting on the same page. A sunny and expansive person, she has decided to tame and bottle a grape variety such as Cesanese, difficult and unpredictable, sometimes grumpy, but also, once "tamed," able to surprise and excite for its elegance and complexity.

In Serrone, at La Forma, on the other hand, is the estate of Giovanni Terenzi. In 1974 Giovanni inherited the family's property and land from his father and founded his own company, devoting himself mainly to growing grapes. Twenty years later, his three sons joined the company and the production of quality wines on their own began, with Cesanese d'Affile and Passerina. Giovanni runs the vineyards himself, following only the traditional methods inherited from his father: he does not use chemical fertilizers, herbicides or products that could harm the environment. The farm is in fact organic, not certified, and follows strict sustainable viticulture.

To read the tasting notes for the two chosen wines, click on the name:

• Coletti Conti, Cesanese del Piglio Superiore Hernicus 2021 
• Giovanni Terenzi, Cesanese del Piglio Superiore Colle Forma 2020

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