His majesty the Conversano cherry

by Annalucia Galeone 06/29/22
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Ciliegia di Conversano impiattamento

Unusual territorial marketing operation for this cherry, ferrovia variety, produced in Conversano and Turi. Involving five great chefs: Gennaro Esposito, Corrado Assenza, Giancarlo Perbellini, Luca Abbruzzino coordinated by Antonio Zaccardi, resident chef at Pashà.

"That things are the way they are doesn't mean they have to be that way. When it comes to rolling up our sleeves and starting to change that's when the vast majority would rather complain than do" cit. Having the audacity to get involved is not for everyone, but, when it happens, the results can surprise. In Conversano, the annual festival dedicated to her majesty the cherry has embarked on a new path, after the stop due to covid the restart has begun with the right formula. 

A strategic territorial marketing and brand identity operation has been dedicated to the cherry also known as red gold, a tasty local excellence and significant economic resource, in order to enhance a product that is, unfortunately, often undervalued. The ferrovia variety is a juicy, fleshy, crunchy and intensely flavored cultivar. One cherry leads to another, stopping is not easy, try it to believe. The paradox is that they are paid little to producers and cost up to fifteen times more to end consumers. 

The author of the restyling idea is Kruger, the association chaired by Antonello Magistà, owner of the starred restaurant il Pashà, with the support of the supply chain and the patronage of the municipal administration. "Cherry production in Conversano and Turi accounts for 40 percent of national production and 80 percent of regional production," comments Antonello Magistà. When I accepted the challenge, I set as a condition the elimination of the food stalls to give space to the protagonist and the operators of the historic center who are in the trenches all year round. Without wanting to replace the actors in the sector or the trade associations, with the help of the regional alderman, we laid the groundwork for the creation of a cherry consortium involving all the producing municipalities in the area southeast of Bari. In the future, we need to prevent the crop from going uncultivated." 

The event included a discovery tour of Conversano's main historical sites, the museum with an exhibition of Paolo Finoglio's paintings, and the field with the cherry orchard. Original and refined was the outdoor breakfast organized in Villa Garibaldi with pastarelle, pandolce, bocconotti, jam and extract made of cherry, of course. The highlight of the event took place at Palazzo Marchionne; here, Checco Zalone shot some scenes from the film "Quo vado?" 

The all-cherry dinner was prepared by five Italian star chefs: Gennaro Esposito, Corrado Assenza, Giancarlo Perbellini, Luca Abbruzzino coordinated by Antonio Zaccardi, resident chef at Pashà. From savory to sweet, the star of the five-course menu was the Conversano cherry. Each chef interpreted the main ingredient in his or her own way, enhancing it with flair and balance; there was no shortage of surprises. The star-studded team was close-knit and well synchronized, the service seemed time-tested, in reality it was the experience of the professionals in the dining room and kitchen that made the difference. 

At the entrée, Ciliegia, corba, fig oil and wild fennel harvested near the coastline by Antonio Zaccardi; Roasted cuttlefish, smoked eggplant reduction, cherry and lovage by Luca Abbruzzino; Warm spaghetti with a base of herbs, pistachio, lemon, colatura di alici and a cherry extract reduction by Gennaro Esposito; Quail glazed with tosazu, a freshly smoked Japanese vinegar, paired with a chicken base, creamed almond with a hint of garlic and cherry by Giancarlo Perbellini; a hymn to cherry and nature Tubettini cooked in sheep's ricotta whey, wild thyme from the Iblei mountains, Bronte pistachio and Noto almonds in Corrado Assenza's two creams and two cherry cookings; and in closing L'oro rosso with cherry, spice jelly, grappa cream and gold by Angelica Giannuzzi pastry chef at Pashà. 

Each chef has adopted a cherry tree and will undertake to create a course with Conversano cherries in his or her restaurant; the initiative will expand and also involve bartenders from exclusive establishments with the inclusion of a cherry-based cocktail on the menu.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)





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