Volcanic agriculture, when the soil makes the difference

Heva – Volcanic Agriculture of Europe is a European Union-backed project aimed at promoting denominations with volcanic soils: Soave, Lessini Durello and Santorini, along with the Monte Veronese cheese PDO.

We all know by now, we’ve said it and repeated it in every way possible: soil makes the difference. At the same time, however, (and this needs to be underscored), what occurs under the soil is what we absolutely know the least about. The area a plant grows in is just a tip of the iceberg, and nothing is known about what occurs below it. We can analyze it a little, in a way we experience it daily with our palate by tasting products from different natural soils that offer different sensations and organoleptic profiles.

To help us understand these differences are projects like Heva – Volcanic Agriculture of Europe. This is an international project backed by the European Union aimed at promoting the PDO wine denominations of Soave, Soave Superiore and Lessini Durello, along with the Monte Veronese cheese PDO, which are supported by their respective producer associations.  The aim of Heva – Volcanic Agriculture of Europe is to promote, emphasize and inform consumers of the extraordinary characteristics of wine and cheese-making that are distinctly different thanks to the volcanic prime ingredient in the soils they grow in.

We will start here looking at the proliferation of the extraordinary characteristics of volcanic soils and what they contribute to winegrowing.

Volcanic soil is often found at a pitch given that volcanos (be they dead or active) are in all respects mountains of different altitudes. This means that they have different pitches and exposure options that need to be constantly monitored and cared for to ensure the surface remains practical for winegrowing and this, at times, can be quite heroic. These soils are typically very fertile and their porous nature means they can retain moisture and thus precious water resources. Volcanic soils are rich in minerals, which is positive for the plant and constitute an element that determines its growth and health which is then evident in the winery when the grapes are processed. Wines from volcanic soils are rich, strongly distinctive and thus need to be made in a correct way. Sometimes, they need time to achieve their proper balance, which in turn ensures their life span.

The positive and negative aspects aside, the results are always unique, thanks to the incredible resources found in the soil.

We look now at the key aspects of PDO wines by appellation.

Soave

Situated in the province of Verona, this is an appellation in which the grape is the key element: Garganega, along with some Trebbiano di Soave. The appellation has 7,000 hectares of vineyards (out of a total of 12,000) in which chalky soils border and blend with volcanic ones. The area produces 48 million bottles a year, for the most part exported. In 1931, Soave was the first Italian wine to be designated as “Vino Tipico”, which entailed limiting the area where it was produced. In 2019, the UGA (Additional Geographic Unit) designation was introduced to promote and enhance the value of the zone itself. The PDO appellation also has the designations of Superiore and Classico.

Lessini Durello

An appellation that straddles the provinces of Verona and Vicenza and the volcanic soil here was created between 50 and 35 million years ago. Wine production is centered on a very hardy varietal, Durella, of which 90% is used to produce both Traditional and Charmat Method sparkling wines. The former involves secondary fermentation in the bottle for a minimum of 24 months on the lees, which becomes 36 months for the Riserva version. Durella grapes, thanks to their nature and being grown on hillsides with volcanic soils, can sit on the lees for a long time to bring out their best after aging long. The grapes are naturally rich in acidity and can be harvested late thanks to being grown on hillsides. At present, the appellation produces around one million bottles a year, a number that is growing for both the Traditional and other Methods, from around 400 hectares of vineyards.

Santorini

winegrowing and is also one of the best white wine grapes in the Mediterranean area. It is resistant to drought as well as attacks of powdery mildew and downy mildew. Santorini still has some ungrafted vines and the island also produces other red and white grapes. The Santorini PDO was created in 1971. It includes dry white wines, those matured in oak barrels and naturally sweet wines. The dry white wines must be composed 75% of Assyrtiko. Since 2002, the Santorini PDO has included a Vinsanto, a sweet wine produced exclusively on Santorini and which is 51% composed of Assyrtiko. The PDO also has a Riserva version, aged for a minimum of 12 months, of which six in oak barrels and three in the bottle; and a Grand Riserve, a dry white wine that has been aged for at least 24 months, of which 12 in oak barrels and six in the bottle. The island has a total of 1,200 hectares of vineyards and produces around 3.3 million bottles of PDO wine. Not to be overlooked: over the past five years, grape produce has fallen by 30-40% due to severe drought and unfavorable weather conditions. The climate, in fact, is characterized by little rainfall and constant breezes.

Although distant from each other and/or distinguished by different winemaking methods, these three zones have a common goal: Protect the uniqueness of volcanic soils by making the wines better known. This by emphasizing their characteristics, their over 1,000-year histories and their many traditions and vicissitudes that have survived over the years. On the other hand, it should not be surprising that a people like the Greeks, the forefathers of modern civilization, and the Italians, descendants of the Roman civilization, must, want to and can attract consumers to their authentic and original products through their culture and education.

We tasted dozens of wines from the three PDO appellations and here review three per denomination that impressed us the most.  Click on the name to read the data sheet.

• Corte Giacobbe Dal Cero Family, Soave Roncà Monte Calvarina S 2022
• Gini, Soave Classico La Froscà 2020
• Gianni Tessari, Soave Classico Perinato Pigno 2021
• Corte Moschina, Lessini Durello Extra Brut 2017
• Fongaro, Lessini Durello Etichetta Verde Pas Dosé 2017
• Casa Cecchin, Lessini Durello Nostrum 2018 
• GAI’A Wines, Santorini Assyrtiko Wild ferment 2021
• Estate Argyros, Assyrtiko Cuvée Monsignori 2018
• Santo Wines, Assyrtiko Grand Reserve 2018

To learn more on the project: https://volcanicagricultureofeurope.com/it/home/

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